History of Fashion and Costume

History of Fashion and Costume

ISBN 978-84-88615-19-1

DL V-4809-2009

Updated 10/06/11	English edition by Lydia González Zapata
Fashion Design, why?

1. Wear, adorn, transform oneself. 1.1 The culture of adaptation and group culture. 1.2. Reasons to dress oneself. a) Protection. Historical samples (fifteenth and sixteenth century) of clothing for protection: a coracina, gloves and a meshed cape. b) shame. c) to decorate. d) social hierarchy. The funerary dorwry of the infant Maria. e) Differentiation from the rest. f) Integration into a group. g) The recreational and liturgical use of clothing. 2. Sexual dimorphism. 3. Fashion and the great social divide.

Ancient History

Chapter I

The historical point of departure

1. The historical point of departure. 1.1. The precedent of fashion: from the end of the fifteenth century to the mid nineteenth century. 1.2. The history of fashion: the mid nineteenth century until the present. 1.3. General considerations in this study.

Chapter II

The dress of The Queen Isabel la Católica

1. Introduction. 2. Historical framework. 3. The character of Isabel. 4. General remarks about her wardrobe. 5. Feminine garments in Spain of the Catholic Kings. 5.1 Underwear: the t-shirt and leggings. 5.2 Garments to dress the body. 5.3 The women's dresses up. 5.4 The mantles. 5.5 Headdress. 5.6 Footwear. 6. Sumptuary laws in the times of the Catholic Kings. 7. An iconographic analysis of a painting.

Chapter III

Sixteenth-century dress

1. A social and political overview of the sixteenth century. 2. Spanish clothing in Europe and its evolution outside of Spain.

Chapter IV

Clothing from 17^th century

1. A social and political overview of the seventeenth century: Paris as the focus of art and culture. 2. The bourgeoisie rises up to be dressed properly. 2.1 Female clothing: the hat and gloves. 2.2 The female doublet 3. A summary of clothing this 17th century. 4. Importance of clothing industry and commerce. 5. Coloured and patterned cloths. 6. Laces. 7. People´s clothing joins fashion.

Chapter V

Clothing from 18^th century

1. Beginning of 18^th century political overview. 2. The new culture in Western Europe. 3. The importance of science, industry and clothing trade. 4. The Era of Dyes. 4.1 The first synthesis of mauveine dye. 4.2 The first German dye patent: methylene blue. 4.3 The indigo formula. 4.4 Invention for liquefaction of chlorine. 4.5 The marketing of dyes implements a technical support to customers.

First half 19^th century: The previous of fashion

5. A summary of the clothing from 1700 to 1850. 5.1 Female clothing. 5.1.1 Gender relations are being modified by society. 5.1.2 the Rococo movement. 5.1.3 The female jacket and the frock coat. 5.1.4 The female doublet and the shawl. 5.2 Male clothing, the frock coat and the gentleman jacket at the end of the XVIII century. 6. An exceptional piece: The robe of Charles the Third Order. 7. The accessories of the cloths. 7. 1 The shoes. 7.2 The stockings. 7.3 The gloves. The muff. The mittens. Long gloves. 7.4 The hat. 7.5 The fan. 7.6 The handbags. 7.7 The jewellery. Buttons. The brooch, clasp and buckle. The bracelet and the chain of a watch. 8. The Empire mode. 8.1 The female clothing. 8.2 fashion accessories. Shoes. Socks. Gloves, purses and earrings. 8.3 The male clothing in the Empire fashion. 8.4 The fashion in the Romanticism (1815-1850). 8.4.1 A summary of clothing in the Romanticism. 8.4.2 Accessories: Headdress, Mitts, Earrings.

The popular clothing in Spain at the end of 18^th century

Popular costumes from other countries

Modern History of fashion and costume

sorry! still in translation. You can read it in Spanish

The book is ready to full download

Bibliography

General Spanish History, Espasa Calpe.

Spanish women, Salvador de Madariaga, Austral.

Cristopher Columbus, Salvador de Madariaga, Espasa-Calpe.

Memories of Cristopher Columbus, Stephen Marlowe, Mondadori.

Isabel la Católica, Tarsicio de Azcona, Sarpe.

Dresses in the age of the Catholic Kings, Vol I, the female dress, Germán Vernís.

Civil and military suits in the days of the Catholic Kings Centenach, Boletín de la Sociedad Española de Excursiones.

History of costumes, François Boucher, Flammarion, Paris, 1983

A short history of dresses and of fashion. , J. Laver, Ensayos Arte Cátedra.

Museu Tèxtil i d'Indumentària, Barcelona, Espanya.

Museo del Traje, CIPE, Madrid, Es.

American Museum of Natural History, NY, NY. US.

National Museum, Surin, Thailand.

CHRISTIAN LACROIX, HISTOIRES DE MODE, Les Arts Décoratifs, Musée de la Mode et du Textile, Paris, Fr., 2008.

BASF Chemical Company.